On the 1st December registration opened for the
UAII Ice Climbing World Cup, which will take place from January to March in
South Korea, Switzerland, Italy, Romania and Russia. Here in Edinburgh, third
year Geology and Physical Geography student Harry Holmes is preparing to compete
in the Switzerland leg of the tour in Saas-Fee as part of the British team,
which he says modestly “is a bit silly because I’m really not that good.”
Ice climbing is the even more difficult and dangerous cousin of rock climbing and becomes interesting because the fluctuating nature of ice means that the routes are often changing. Holmes has competed in climbing competitions before, coming second in the Scottish Tooling Series last year and second in the Northern Tooling Series this year (dry-tooling has all the technique and equipment of ice climbing without any of the ice), but never on such a international stage.
At the moment his preparation consists of climbing as much as possible, avoiding a proper training plan, “as I would get bored if it got too much of a routine,” and finding someone to fund his entry into the competition.
Fortunately he managed to recently get sponsorship from Schmoolz, a company which makes dry tooling training aids, making it easier for him to compete. However he says that aside from big events he would not want to be sponsored for his everyday climbing because of the demands that sponsors make on achieving difficult climbs: “I’d rather not feel pressurised to climb hard things, but do it because I want to.”
For Holmes, climbing is not so much about the adrenaline thrill of facing death but rather about the technical side of making judgements on particular routes. He admits to enjoying the “geeky” side of winter climbing which is all about “how to put a piece of metal in rock”. This is apparent when he talks about the climbing gear that he has made or adapted. Instead of buying ￡300 custom-made fruit boots for ice climbing he has altered an old pair of climbing shoes by adding crampons. Apparently these shoes give him a flexibility that traditional ice boots would not and have the advantage of only costing him ￡80.
However, this is also is a reminder of the very well-equipped and funded professionals that Holmes will be going up against. He’s aware that the competition is daunting,Posts with indoor tracking system on TRX Systems develops systems that locate and track personnel indoors. saying that sometimes the World Cup climbers come and compete in Scottish competitions where they “blitz everything”. Yet although the chances of him triumphing are slight, Holmes is determined to participate in an honourable way, saying that he’d rather help people and give them suggestions on how to do a route than give them bad advice so he could do better. He attributes this attitude partly to the sport, which he sees as being unique for the reason that, even at the highest level, competitors still give their rivals advice on how to improve.
Whilst Holmes has a huge desire to push himself as far as possible; such aspirations have sometimes backfired. He recounts an incident when he first began climbing: “I was being a bit ambitious which is what I generally do, sort of like entering the World Cup.” He fell and landed head first on a rock, ending up in hospital and sustaining an injury that ultimately forced him to redo his first year.
Yet despite the dangers, Holmes does not foresee a future in which he won’t be climbing. His love of the sport is summed up in an account of his last climbing trip: “On Wednesday I was sat in a corrie in a complete white out and I was like ‘Why do I even enjoy this?’. And then we started climbing and it completely blew away because it’s just the best thing ever. There’s nothing like winter climbing. It’s just amazing.”
By switching from orbital milling to corkscrew milling with an indexable, Ingersoll Cutting ToolsHi-Feed Deka face mill for holes over 1.500 inches, Baldor has cut the process cycle time by an average of three to one, and improved tool life by 10 to one. Then, a boring sequence finishes the holes,High quality stone mosaic tiles. as before. The annualized saving from the process change at Baldor Gainesville is estimated at more than $40,000 annually.
The switch got its start early in 2010 when Darimus Glasper, manufacturing engineering technician at Gainesville, started looking around for a faster way to open three-inch holes in a ductile iron casting with two-inch thick walls. The part is an explosion-proof cover that encloses the electrical leads in large motors. Baldor Gainesville’s annual production volume is 100 of these pieces, performed intermittently in 10-piece lots.Our technology gives rtls systems developers the ability.
“Because of the workpiece geometry, the holes must be drilled from solid in a long-reach setup,” Glasper said. “Not only was it slow going with the orbiting method and the solid-carbide too: we also went through a lot of tools.” Moreover, he recalled that operators were concerned because the spindle load meter read 90% even at that slow rate.
At the time, Baldor’s standard approach to roughing out the holes was orbital milling with a 3/4-inch, four-flute solid carbide end mill.High quality stone mosaic tiles. In orbital milling, the technique is to plunge about 0.100 inch and then orbit the tool at a very careful feedrate (so it will not snap off, as brittle solid carbide end mills are likely to do.) Then, the process is repeated until there is a break through,High quality stone mosaic tiles. with the hope that the resulting slug doesn’t pose a safety hazard or damage the tool. It’s basically start-and-stop. For each hole that Baldor machinists produced in the two-inch thick walls, they had to follow about 20 steps.
Ice climbing is the even more difficult and dangerous cousin of rock climbing and becomes interesting because the fluctuating nature of ice means that the routes are often changing. Holmes has competed in climbing competitions before, coming second in the Scottish Tooling Series last year and second in the Northern Tooling Series this year (dry-tooling has all the technique and equipment of ice climbing without any of the ice), but never on such a international stage.
At the moment his preparation consists of climbing as much as possible, avoiding a proper training plan, “as I would get bored if it got too much of a routine,” and finding someone to fund his entry into the competition.
Fortunately he managed to recently get sponsorship from Schmoolz, a company which makes dry tooling training aids, making it easier for him to compete. However he says that aside from big events he would not want to be sponsored for his everyday climbing because of the demands that sponsors make on achieving difficult climbs: “I’d rather not feel pressurised to climb hard things, but do it because I want to.”
For Holmes, climbing is not so much about the adrenaline thrill of facing death but rather about the technical side of making judgements on particular routes. He admits to enjoying the “geeky” side of winter climbing which is all about “how to put a piece of metal in rock”. This is apparent when he talks about the climbing gear that he has made or adapted. Instead of buying ￡300 custom-made fruit boots for ice climbing he has altered an old pair of climbing shoes by adding crampons. Apparently these shoes give him a flexibility that traditional ice boots would not and have the advantage of only costing him ￡80.
However, this is also is a reminder of the very well-equipped and funded professionals that Holmes will be going up against. He’s aware that the competition is daunting,Posts with indoor tracking system on TRX Systems develops systems that locate and track personnel indoors. saying that sometimes the World Cup climbers come and compete in Scottish competitions where they “blitz everything”. Yet although the chances of him triumphing are slight, Holmes is determined to participate in an honourable way, saying that he’d rather help people and give them suggestions on how to do a route than give them bad advice so he could do better. He attributes this attitude partly to the sport, which he sees as being unique for the reason that, even at the highest level, competitors still give their rivals advice on how to improve.
Whilst Holmes has a huge desire to push himself as far as possible; such aspirations have sometimes backfired. He recounts an incident when he first began climbing: “I was being a bit ambitious which is what I generally do, sort of like entering the World Cup.” He fell and landed head first on a rock, ending up in hospital and sustaining an injury that ultimately forced him to redo his first year.
Yet despite the dangers, Holmes does not foresee a future in which he won’t be climbing. His love of the sport is summed up in an account of his last climbing trip: “On Wednesday I was sat in a corrie in a complete white out and I was like ‘Why do I even enjoy this?’. And then we started climbing and it completely blew away because it’s just the best thing ever. There’s nothing like winter climbing. It’s just amazing.”
By switching from orbital milling to corkscrew milling with an indexable, Ingersoll Cutting ToolsHi-Feed Deka face mill for holes over 1.500 inches, Baldor has cut the process cycle time by an average of three to one, and improved tool life by 10 to one. Then, a boring sequence finishes the holes,High quality stone mosaic tiles. as before. The annualized saving from the process change at Baldor Gainesville is estimated at more than $40,000 annually.
The switch got its start early in 2010 when Darimus Glasper, manufacturing engineering technician at Gainesville, started looking around for a faster way to open three-inch holes in a ductile iron casting with two-inch thick walls. The part is an explosion-proof cover that encloses the electrical leads in large motors. Baldor Gainesville’s annual production volume is 100 of these pieces, performed intermittently in 10-piece lots.Our technology gives rtls systems developers the ability.
“Because of the workpiece geometry, the holes must be drilled from solid in a long-reach setup,” Glasper said. “Not only was it slow going with the orbiting method and the solid-carbide too: we also went through a lot of tools.” Moreover, he recalled that operators were concerned because the spindle load meter read 90% even at that slow rate.
At the time, Baldor’s standard approach to roughing out the holes was orbital milling with a 3/4-inch, four-flute solid carbide end mill.High quality stone mosaic tiles. In orbital milling, the technique is to plunge about 0.100 inch and then orbit the tool at a very careful feedrate (so it will not snap off, as brittle solid carbide end mills are likely to do.) Then, the process is repeated until there is a break through,High quality stone mosaic tiles. with the hope that the resulting slug doesn’t pose a safety hazard or damage the tool. It’s basically start-and-stop. For each hole that Baldor machinists produced in the two-inch thick walls, they had to follow about 20 steps.
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